Brownies: Part 1

As a child, I loved brownies (especially when flavored with mint chocolate chips), and while I've continued to indulge my devotion to chocolate, I usually only treat myself to a few squares of organic dark per day.  So when the craving for chocolate combined with the urge to purge, spring cleaning style, this past weekend, I took a peek in my cupboards and saw that I had just the right amount of ingredients to make some cocoa powder brownies, along with using up some space-consuming pantry items. 


Because of their high fat content, cocoa powder brownies are usually very dense and fudgy instead of cakey.  I substituted whole grain spelt flour for the all purpose, mostly because it was the only grain flour I had, but also because I'm not a huge fan of AP flour.  This recipe only calls for a small amount of flour, and I don't think it made any difference in the texture or taste of the final product.  One of the best parts of this recipe is that it only requires one bowl to mix everything together.  After throwing these together on the fly and sharing them with my Burlesque classmates the next day, I began to wonder if there were any cakey brownie recipes that would be as delicious and satisfying as these were, and then if I could come up with an original recipe that combined the qualities of the two.  Below you'll find my favorite fudgy cocoa powder brownies and next weekend I'll post my results with a caky brownie.  After testing very different recipes, I'll post my own recipe for the best of both worlds.


Best Cocoa Brownies

Epicurious  | November 2003

Alice Medrich

Ingredients:

• 10 tablespoons (1 1/4 sticks) unsalted butter
• 1 1/4 cups sugar
• 3/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons unsweetened cocoa powder (natural or Dutch-process)
• 1/4 teaspoon salt
• 1/2 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
• 2 cold large eggs
• 1/2 cup all-purpose flour
• 2/3 cup walnut or pecan pieces (optional)

• Special equipment: An 8-inch square baking pan

Procedure:

Position a rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat the oven to 325°F. Line the bottom and sides of the baking pan with parchment paper or foil, leaving an overhang on two opposite sides.

Combine the butter, sugar, cocoa, and salt in a medium heatproof bowl and set the bowl in a wide skillet of barely simmering water. Stir from time to time until the butter is melted and the mixture is smooth and hot enough that you want to remove your finger fairly quickly after dipping it in to test. Remove the bowl from the skillet and set aside briefly until the mixture is only warm, not hot.

Stir in the vanilla with a wooden spoon. Add the eggs one at a time, stirring vigorously after each one. When the batter looks thick, shiny, and well blended, add the flour and stir until you cannot see it any longer, then beat vigorously for 40 strokes with the wooden spoon or a rubber spatula. Stir in the nuts, if using. Spread evenly in the lined pan.

Bake until a toothpick plunged into the center emerges slightly moist with batter, 20 to 25 minutes. Let cool completely on a rack.

Lift up the ends of the parchment or foil liner, and transfer the brownies to a cutting board. Cut into 16 or 25 squares.

Chocolate note: (from the original recipe)
Any unsweetened natural or Dutch-process cocoa powder works well here. Natural cocoa produces brownies with more flavor complexity and lots of tart, fruity notes. I think it's more exciting. Dutch-process cocoa results in a darker brownie with a mellower, old-fashioned chocolate pudding flavor, pleasantly reminiscent of childhood.

Baked Eggs

Someone recently asked me if I had a good basic recipe for an omelet, and I told him I would do a blog post on it, but then I realized that I don't really make omelets in the traditional sense.  There are a few methods for omelet making, the American, the French, and the Italian.  With the French, the pan is shaken constantly until the eggs are set, and then folded three times around any filling (meats, cheeses, vegetables).  The American method utilizes a rubber spatula to manipulate and stir the egg mixture, which is finished by folding the omelet in half.  Of course, there are more nuances than I'm taking the time to describe here, but if you're interested in the details check out this lesson.

My personal favorite is the Italian method, often called a frittata.  I usually saute an onion, add in some steamed veggies (spinach, arugula, asparagus, broccoli, carrots, zucchini...the options are endless) and top with whatever cheese I've got laying around (usually fresh goat cheese, raw sharp cheddar, or parmigiano reggiano), finished by pouring two eggs into the pan and baking until set and lightly browned on top.  This is such an easy meal to throw together and a really simple, fast, and healthy way to get some protein and vegetables in.  Don't relegate eggs to breakfast, try them for dinner too!

Below is my recipe for baked eggs.  Feel free to be creative and make substitutions; Let me know your favorite combinations!

Baked Eggs with Red Onion, Asparagus, and Parmigiano Reggiano

serves 1-2


Ingredients:

1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil, plus more if needed
1 red onion, thinly sliced
1/2 cup thinly slices asparagus
2 organic eggs, whisked with up to two tablespoons of water or milk to make a fluffier omelet
butter (optional)
1/4 cup grated parmigiano reggiano (I use a vegetable peeler to create just a few curls of cheese)
sea salt to taste

Procedure:

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees (F).
Heat a 8-inch pan over medium heat.  Add about one tablespoon of oil and heat until shimmering.  Saute the onion with a large pinch of salt until translucent, 2-4 minutes.  Add the asparagus and cook for 1-2 minutes, until the color has brightened and they are slightly tender.  If the pan looks very dry, add a bit more oil or small pat of butter.  Toss the ingredients in the pan to distribute the added oil.  Pour the egg mixture into the pan and turn off the heat.  Top the mixture with the grated cheese and bake in the preheated oven until the center of the omelet is firm.  If desired, finish under the broiler for 1-2 minutes, until the top is lightly browned.

To serve, slide the omelet onto a plate or platter.

I served mine with a few potato pancakes and a sliced avocado.  It was a delicious dinner ready in under 20 minutes.

Apartment 138

So, this is my first restaurant review since starting my blog, but hardly the first time I've thought in depth about where and what I eat.  Friends of mine can attest to the fact that I can analyze the hell out of a dish, but even if I don't think its absolutely AMAZING, I try not to let it bring down the whole experience of eating out.  After working as a private chef, in a busy cafe, and interning in a tiny and busy kitchen, I never take eating out lightly; I appreciate the front-of-house and kitchen staff so much.

Saying that, its time to get on with the review.

This past Wednesday night, my mom was in town and I dragged her along with me to a book signing for Guts by Kristen Johnston, someone I've been a fan of ever since my geeky little self first saw 3rd Rock From The Sun.  After hearing her read from the book (describing her literally gut-wrenching addiction), my mom and I worked up an appetite.

My good friend Jen lives in the neighborhood recommended Apartment 138 (138 Smith Street, Brooklyn).

When we walked in, my first thought was that the space seemed like so many other Brooklyn bar/restaurants with the exposed brick, interesting light bulbs, and rustic menu font.  Apparently, they also have a back patio and a game room, neither of which I saw, but probably add a lot to the experience.
Since I love vegetables, especially those in the cruciferous family, we shared the Roasted Cauliflower with almond gremolata, raisins, and a brown butter vinaigrette.  I don't think I've ever been so disappointed with roasted cauliflower.  The gremolata, raisins, and vinaigrette were excellent, along with the aged cheese grated on top, but the actual cauliflower was underdone, under salted, and hardly had any caramelization on it.  The florets were also so large that I had to cut them just to fit them into my mouth.  Since they were so big, the yummy bits just fell to the bottom of the dish, instead of clinging to the cauliflower.  This dish could be saved by cutting the florets into smaller pieces, adding more salt, and ACTUALLY roasting it.  Not a total failure, but could be made so much better with a few tweaks.

For our mains, my mom got the Hangar Steak special over an italian bread salad with what looked like wilted romaine, and she absolutely adored it.  I love cooking salad greens, especially romaine, because its not something you see everyday.

I had the Day Boat Hake over warm beet, tangerine, and edamame salad with poppy seed vinaigrette.  The fish was fresh, the beets were perfectly cooked, and the tangerines had a yummy sweetness to them.  I would have preferred a little more acid/vinegar/citrus juice in the vinaigrette, but I think that is more my personal preference; I like my salad dressings pretty assertive.

We passed on dessert, but only because we were both pleasantly full.

Overall, I'd give it a three out of five.

Anyone else ever been to Apartment 138? How is their game room?

Beet, Carrot, and Potato Hash

Lately, most of my time cooking has been spent on using up my winter CSA share, which is brimming with root vegetables.  After going to a party Saturday night and sleeping in way later than I normally do, I was groggy, hungry, and craving vegetables.  I decided on making something inspired by one of my favorite brunch by the dish at The Roebling Tea Room in Williamsburg, Brooklyn.

Beet, Carrot, and Potato Hash

Ingredients:

3 Tablespoons vegetable oil
1 medium red onion, diced

sea salt

1 Tablespoon dried rosemary

1 teaspoon dried sage

large pinch red pepper flakes

4-5 fingerling potatoes

2 medium beets

3 medium carrots

3 cloves garlic

Procedure:

Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium heat.  Add the onions and a generous pinch of salt; cook and sir until soft and translucent, 5 to 7 minutes.  
Add the herbs and stir to incorporate.  While the onion is cooking, grate the vegetables and garlic using a food processor.  Stir in the potatoes, beets, thyme, and garlic.  Season with salt to taste.  Cook, turning it occasionally, until the potatoes and beets are tender and slightly crispy, 15 to 20 minutes.  Remove the skillet from heat.  Season generously with pepper, and more salt if desired, to taste.

Serve under a poached or over-easy egg.  The yolk is delicious mixed into the veggies!

Vegan Grasshopper Pie for Leap Day

Last week at work, we decided to make some themed items to celebrate Leap Day, February 29th.  My coworker and I both wanted to make Grasshopper Pies, but our specialties lie in different arenas; I specialize in health-supportive recipe conversions, she in quick and easy dishes.  As our boss overheard us discussing who should get to make their dish, he suggested a "bake-off" of sorts, with the rest of the employees and himself, along with any clients present, as judges.

More conventional Grasshopper Pie recipes call for using marshmallows or ice cream, neither of which fit into my idea of a healthy version of the dish.  When I began researching vegan styles, all the recipes I found called for silken tofu, which I prefer not to use because of my own inability to digest soy, in addition to the way it affects the brain, so I decided to create my own original version.  Let me know what you guys think!

 

Vegan Grasshopper Pie

Crust:

1 package vegan chocolate cookies (I used a brand found at Eataly, here in New York City, but any brand will do.  Feel free to experiment here, try crumbling vegan chocolate cake, or using wafer cookies and adding cocoa powder)

2-4 Tablespoons coconut oil

2-4 Tablespoons agave syrup (substitute maple syrup if desired)

Filling:

1 can coconut milk

3 cups almond milk (I used Pacific Natural Foods, but homemade would be best)

1 T coconut oil

5 Tablespoons kudzu root starch

3/4 cup agave syrup

3 teaspoons agar agar flakes (a vegetarian gelatin replacement made from sea vegetables)

1/4 sea salt

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

2 teaspoons peppermint extract

juice from a handful or two of baby spinach (optional)

semi-sweet chocolate chips, or 1/4-1/2 c semi-sweet chocolate shavings

Line a spring-form pan with plastic wrap and set aside.  Put the chocolate cookies in a food processor and pulse until they are broken into fine crumbs.  While machine is running, add equal parts agave and coconut oil until the mixture resembles wet sand.  Pour into lined pan and using another sheet of plastic wrap, press the crumb mixture into the bottom of the pan and just slightly up the sides.  The crust should be between 1/8 and 1/4 inch thick. Refrigerate while you prepare the filling.  Pour the coconut and almond milks into a medium saucepan, reserving 5 Tablespoons.  Dissolve kudzu in the reserved milk and refrigerate until ready to use.  Add coconut oil, agave syrup, salt, and agar flakes to the saucepan and heat mixture over medium heat until just simmering.  Stir constantly until the flakes are completely dissolved and then whisk in the kudzu slurry.  Simmer until the mixture thickens and the kudzu is completely dissolved.  Turn off the heat, and stir in both extracts and spinach juice.  Let cool until no longer steaming.  Stir to incorporate any firmed filling and pour into prepared chocolate crust.  While the filling is still warm, sprinkle the chocolate chips or chocolate shavings onto the top of the filling so the chocolate melts slightly into the pie.  Refrigerate overnight.  To serve, un-mold the spring-form pan and slide onto plate, gently peeling away the plastic wrap.  If desired, freeze for a few hours before serving.

Easy, Healthy, and Cheap

After revamping my Facebook page this past week, I was asked for some affordable and healthy recipes by Sean, an old friend from my hometown.  His request for easy, affordable, vegetarian meal ideas immediately brought bean and grain salads to mind.  Considering my recent post on soy, I wanted to give one of the best animal-free protein sources I know, the combination of beans, grains, legumes, nuts and seeds.  If you think about traditional foods from around the world, the combinations are almost intuitive; black beans and rice, lentils and walnuts, chickpeas with sesame seeds (hummus) and whole wheat pita.

Considering the importance of convenience and frugality to Sean's lifestyle, my first thought when deciding what recipe to provide went to my pantry.  I found items that would be perfect for this dish and demonstrate the basic blueprint for a bean and grain salad.

White Bean Salad with Spelt Berries, Sun-Dried Tomatoes, and Goat Cheese

Yield: 3-4 servings

Ingredients:

1 1/2 cups of cooked spelt berries
1 can cannellini beans, or about 1 1/2 cups cooked beans
1/4 cup chopped sun-dried tomatoes in oil
1 bunch of washed and rinsed watercress or baby spinach, roughly chopped
2 tablespoons red wine vinegar
1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon dried rosemary, or 2 tablespoons fresh rosemary, finely chopped
sea salt and pepper to taste
1 4 oz. package of fresh goat cheese

Procedure:

In a large bowl, combine the spelt, beans, tomatoes, and watercress.  Add the vinegar, oil, and rosemary to a small jar with a tight fitting lid.  Shake vigorously to emulsify the dressing.  Season with a large pinch of salt and a few grinds of fresh black pepper.  Toss the dressing with the salad and re-season with more vinegar or salt as needed.  Crumble the cheese into the salad and gently fold it in.  Serve and enjoy.

Once you master one grain and bean salad, you'll be hooked.  Just switch out whatever beans and grains you have around and add in two or three fresh vegetables.  You can even use leftover roasted, steamed, or sauteed vegetables.  Whip up a simple salad dressing of vinegar or citrus juice, olive oil, and herbs, and finish with some cheese or a cut up avocado.

A few suggestions:

Black bean and long grain brown rice salad with red peppers, romaine lettuce, mango, and cotija with a lime-cilantro vinegrette.

Adzuki beans and millet, with crispy baked shiitake's, celery, and shredded nappa cabbage, with sesame miso dressing.

Chickpea and quinoa salad, with shredded carrots, sliced radish, and baby spinach, with avocado and apple cider vinaigrette.

Lentil salad with roasted sweet potato or butternut squash, with thinly sliced lacinato kale, green onions,  and toasted walnuts, and champagne vinegar dressing.

Have fun, pick seasonal veggies, and grab cans of beans and bags of grains when they're on sale.
(Or if you really want to save pennies, cook your own beans and grains.  You can even freeze them for months once cooked!)

Roasted Sunchokes with Sardine-Paprika Vinaigrette

I can't believe how long its been since my last post...

As part of my New Year's Resolutions (can I still make them in February?) I'm tryinging to keep my online presence updated, so to start it off, here's a recipe inspired by the Jerusalem Artichokes from the winter CSA.  Try this recipe that combines the anti-inflammatory qualities of sardines (an excellent source of Omega-3s) with the inulin-rich (a carbohydrate with prebiotic properties) root vegetable.

Roasted Sunchokes with Sardine-Paprika Vinaigrette

1 lb sunchokes, thoroughly washed, scrubbed, and cut into medium-sized pieces

2 Tbs extra virgin olive oil

1/2 tsp sea salt, plus more to taste

1 can of high quality sardines in olive oil (Spanish or Portuguese)

2 Tbs sherry vinegar

1 large shallot, minced

1 tsp dijon mustard

1/2 tsp smoked paprika

Preheat oven to 400°F.  Toss the jerusalem artichokes with the oil and
the sea salt.  Spread the artichokes in a single layer on rimmed
baking sheet and roast for about 40 minutes, shaking the pan halfway
through to encourage even browning.  Roast for another 5-10 minutes,
or until caramelized around the edges.

Meanwhile, combine the sardines and their oil, vinegar, shallot,
mustard, and paprika in a jar with a tight-fitting lid and shake until
well-combined.

Toss the roasted sunchokes with the sardine mixture and season to
taste.  Serve hot.